Nudie Jeans: The Complete Guide (Fits, Sizes, Raw Denim)

Nudie Jeans is the best organic denim brand on the market. But with 10 fits that all sound alike and a confusing Swedish sizing system, it's also the brand where people make the most mistakes. Let's untangle it all.

I've been selling Nudie for years and wear them daily. I'll tell you what works, which fits are truly popular, the pitfalls, and how to choose your first pair of jeans from the brand without making a mistake.

What exactly is Nudie Jeans?

A Swedish denim brand, founded in Gothenburg in 2001 by Maria Erixon Levin (former design director at Lee Europe) and Joakim Levin. Their philosophy: raw denim that ages with time and tells your story. Original slogan: "The Naked Truth About Denim".

What sets Nudie apart from other denim brands:

• 100% GOTS certified organic cotton since 2012. All their jeans without exception.
• Free repairs for life at their repair shops (or free sewing kits by mail)
• Take-back and recycling program for your old Nudie jeans
• Total transparency on the production chain (Italy, Tunisia, Portugal)
• Stronger focus on raw denim than competitors, with Japanese selvedge fabrics on premium models

New price: from 120 to 300 € depending on the cut and fabric. It's an investment, but these are jeans designed to last 10-15 years and develop a unique patina during that time.

The fits to know (in order of importance)

Lean Dean — the absolute bestseller

Slim tapered fit. Not too tight on the thighs, tapered at the calf and ankle. The most versatile fit, suitable for 80% of male body types.

Who it's for: everyone from 20 to 50, normal to athletic body types. This is my first recommendation for someone discovering the brand.

Gritty Jackson — the regular fit

Regular straight fit. Falls straight from the hip to the ankle, without tapering. More classic, more heritage.

Who it's for: those who don't like slim fits, who have muscular thighs, or who are looking for a more assertive heritage/workwear look. Perfect with Danner or Red Wing boots.

Grim Tim — the classic slim

Slim regular fit. Fitted from thigh to bottom, but without the tapered effect of the Lean Dean. Closer to the body without being tight.

Who it's for: younger people, slender body types, those who want jeans that "stick" a little more to the leg.

Steady Eddie — the modern straight

Straight regular fit. Slightly looser than the Lean Dean, straighter than the Gritty Jackson. A "middle ground" fit.

Who it's for: those who want jeans that are not too slim but not oversized. Good compromise.

Tight Terry — the skinny

Skinny fit. Very fitted everywhere. For very slender body types.

Who it's for: reserved for stylish individuals and genuinely slim body types. Skip it if you're hesitant.

Breezy Britt — for women

Mom fit: high waist, fitted at the hips, straight through the legs. The women's bestseller.

Lofty Lo & Straight Sally — for women

Women's straight fits, in several shades. More classic.

Fabrics and finishes

Raw denim (Dry denim)

This is THE core business of Nudie. The jeans arrive raw, undyed, in a very dark indigo blue. They will age over months, showing your creases, taking the shape of your body.

First wash: wait a minimum of 6 months. It's tough at first, but that's what creates the unique patina.

Selvedge

Fabric woven on traditional looms, with a self-finished blue/white selvedge edge (visible when cuffing the bottom). On premium Nudie models (Lean Dean Dry Selvedge, Grim Tim Selvedge, etc.).

The fabric is usually Japanese, woven at Kaihara, 13-14oz. Very high quality, jeans priced at 200-250 €.

Washes (Washed denim)

For those who don't want to wait for the patina. Various washes, from medium blue to light blue, sometimes with vintage effects. Less character in the long run but easier to wear immediately.

Nudie sizing guide (important)

Nudie uses the US system with two numbers: waist size × inseam length. Example: 32/34 = 32-inch waist, 34-inch leg.

Waist size correspondence

• W28 (71 cm) = FR size 36
• W29 (74 cm) = FR size 38
• W30 (76 cm) = FR size 40
• W31 (79 cm) = FR size 40-42
• W32 (81 cm) = FR size 42
• W33 (84 cm) = FR size 44
• W34 (86 cm) = FR size 44
• W36 (91 cm) = FR size 46

Inseam lengths

• L30: for 1m65-1m72 (5'5"-5'8")
• L32: for 1m72-1m80 (5'8"-5'11") (most common)
• L34: for 1m80-1m88 (5'11"-6'2")
• L36: for 1m88+ (6'2"+)

Trap to avoid: raw denim shrinks in the wash

Raw Nudie jeans will shrink 1 to 3 cm (0.4-1.2 inches) in the waist and 2-4 cm (0.8-1.6 inches) in length during the first cold water wash. So if you're getting raw denim:

• Take your exact waist size (not bigger)
• Take 1 to 2 inches more in length (L34 instead of L32 if you're 1m78 / 5'10")

Conversely, if you get a washed pair, it will barely change. Take your exact size and exact length.

My advice for a first pair of Nudie jeans

If you're unsure, get a Lean Dean Dry Selvedge

Lean Dean fit (slim tapered, versatile) + Dry Selvedge fabric (raw, Japanese, which will develop a magnificent patina). This is the "best of" Nudie for a first purchase.

Price: around 230 €.

If you're afraid of raw denim

Get a Lean Dean in Mid Blue or Black Stone wash. You'll have jeans that are ready to wear immediately, in the fit that suits 80% of people.

If you're looking for maximum character

Gritty Jackson Dry Maze Selvedge. Regular straight fit, 14oz Japanese fabric, pure raw. You'll have jeans with a strong personality and an exceptional patina in 6-12 months.

Common mistakes with Nudie

Mistake #1: getting a size too big out of habit

Nudie jeans fit true to size. If you "usually" wear a 32 at Levi's, you might go down to a 31 at Nudie, especially in a Lean Dean fit. Measure your exact waist and trust the numbers, not your habits.

Mistake #2: washing raw denim too soon

Wait a minimum of 6 months before the first wash of raw denim. Ideally 12 months. This is what creates the unique patina that makes the jeans valuable. If you wash too early, you lose indigo too quickly and the result is dull.

Mistake #3: confusing similar fits

Lean Dean and Grim Tim are both slim, but different. Lean Dean is tapered (more fitted at the bottom), Grim Tim is straight at the bottom. Try both if you can, or rely on my descriptions above.

Nudie's eco-responsibility: genuine, not just marketing

At Nudie, it's not just greenwashing. Specifically:

• 100% GOTS organic cotton since 2012 (before it was fashionable)
• Free repairs for life: you bring your ripped jeans to any repair shop, and they fix them for free
• Free sewing kits sent by mail upon request
• Official second-hand program: they collect old Nudie jeans, refurbish them, and resell them at a lower price
• Vegan patches made of paper (no leather) since 2018

It's rare to find a brand so consistent between its words and actions. It's worth the 50-100 € difference compared to classic Levi's.

In short — the recap

• First order? Lean Dean Dry Selvedge or Lean Dean Mid Blue
• Athletic build? Gritty Jackson (regular)
• Slender build? Grim Tim (classic slim)
• Want raw denim that patinas? Dry Selvedge fabric, never washed for at least 6 months
• Limited budget? Non-selvedge fits, around 140 €

Nudie is the denim brand I recommend most in-store. Quality, fits that suit almost everyone, real ethics, jeans that last. At that price, it's hard to find better.

To go further

• Nudie raw denim: how to break it in properly
• Men's denim fit guide
• Selvedge explained simply
• All denim articles